Popular once the designs of steel doors gradually lose popularity and fall into the background before the onslaught of the strongest competitor - the entrance of the safe-doors. Such an unusual name for the door is a usual marketing move to attract the attention of a buyer who is seriously concerned about the security of his home. Ironically, but its growing popularity of safe doors are due to Chinese manufacturers of steel armored doors. After the market began to literally plunge into cheap and expensive counterfeits, the status of the metal door as a reliable defender fell to a minimum, even the frantic discounts and free installation services did not help.
What is safe-door, and whether they cost money spent
By design, these are the same steel doors, but made with the maximum safety margin of the main door leaf, frame, frame, locks and hinges. To attract buyers, manufacturers and dealers have come up with the use of the term safe-doors to distinguish a cheap steel or tin door from their products, designed to maximize the available level of protection of the door structure.
Safe-doors differ from metal or armored door designs with some technical details:
- The weight of the safe-door without a box or carrier frame is from 70 kg to 200 kg and above. The thickness of the metal door leaf from 2 to 4 mm, the number of loops or canopies from three pieces;
- The system of locks and locking mechanisms is equipped with a lock with five locks, side deviators and vertical spacers. The entire construction of the locking bolts is actuated by turning the key or an additional handle allowing the safe door to be closed from the inside without a key;
- Presence of anti-burglary overlays on hinges, special armored plates in the area of installation of the lock of the safe-doors and compensators, warning the removal of the door leaf from the canopies.
In fact, the first two door designs differ only in theoretical time, which can be spent by an attacker for hacking. For example, for doors II and III class this is 5 and 10 minutes, respectively, for IV - up to 30 minutes. Europe classifies safe-doors of II and III category, ordinary and increased durability. In addition, there is reason to believe that our doors of category III are their second.
At the same time, one should not think that high-quality safe-door designs are only Europe and America. You can find a successful door construction from the domestic manufacturer, for example, the safe-door "Argus". The main value is that today there are a lot of feedback on the practical use of the company's products, there are plenty to choose from and what to look at. In addition, the manufacturer is trying to fill the market and update the range with new door models, for example, the safe-doors of the "Berloga". The average cost of 2-millimeter doors will be from 14 thousand rubles. The European analogue will cost 600 euros.
Choose and put the safe-door
The simplest and most obvious solution would be to buy and install safe-doors of the fourth class. Such a door structure is designed for a maximum, technologically acceptable level for living quarters. But not always the maximum level on paper or in the certificate really corresponds to the high quality of the product, namely it is the determining condition for effective protection.
Criterias of choice
The class of resistance of safe doors is very popular with the sellers of construction shops and specialized salons, so information about the protection class of this safe-door design should be taken into consideration, no more.
The main features of high quality safe doors are:
- Welded or bent welded construction of alloyed metal. Quality metal, even a small thickness of 1.8-2 mm is very difficult to handle, so the outer door of the safe-door, as a rule, does not have decorative stamped stiffeners or edges;
- Absence of riveted, bolted joints, profiles, corners. Any type of connection, except for welding, seriously weakens the door structure and is a sign of semi-handicraft assembly of safe doors. Welding seam should be perfectly even, which indicates good equipment and sharp technology of in-line production;
- Precision geometry of the frame and linen of safe doors. In the construction of doors there should be no slots, or curved surfaces. If there is a gap between the frame and the door of the safe-door, then along the entire contour this gap should be of the same size, accurate to a tenth of a millimeter.
Do not take seriously sellers' bites about shrinkage and sagging of doors, that the geometry of the door structure aligns under its own weight. Such safe-doors of Chinese production are often given out for domestic or CIS-all products.
The outer and inner surfaces of doors of good quality are often subjected to veneering or the laying of decorative linings. Therefore, if it was possible to knock a finger on the steel door and determine the thickness and quality of the metal by ear, then this number will not pass for safe doors. It is better to inspect the inner joints of the box or frame, to find in the design traces of rust or untreated metal.
Separately it is worth mentioning the thickness of the metal. The best safe doors are made of chromium and manganese alloyed steels. Even with a small thickness, viscosity and strength of the door leaf is enough to reserve to resist the brutal impact. For example, alloy steel of 2 mm can not be pierced with an ax, and a black metal without heat treatment is quite easy.
Installation of safe doors
Before installing the safe doors, you need to carefully remove the old doors and expand the doorway by at least 50-70 cm in height and 110-120 cm in width. The vertical size of the door is often limited to the presence of structural bearing beams, which can not be touched and cut off. In addition, it is necessary to measure the thickness of the wall and the width of the door unit so that it does not turn out that the door will be thicker than the wall.
Before installing the door structure, preliminary marking of the fastener location is performed and holes with a depth of 150 mm are drilled into the side walls. The holes are clogged with pieces of reinforcement, with a diameter of 12-15 mm, or install a special fastener supplied with the door.
After this, a frame or frame is placed in the doorway, on which the door leaf will be hung. On the frame of the door there are special corners, tides and mounting holes, by means of which the frame is welded by electric welding to the clogged rods. In expensive models of safe doors, screw fastenings and spacers are installed, installed on the sides and at the top of the door frame. This allows you to compensate for the load of the door frame and get an almost perfect geometry of the doorway. The space between the wall and the bar is usually blown out with foam and covered with plaster. For the entrance to the safe-doors of private houses, experts recommend laying gaps with a crushed butovite stone on a concrete mortar with a mark of at least M200. After that, it is possible to tear out or extrude the door frame from the wall only with part of the wall masonry. At the last stage it is necessary to check the smooth operation of all locking mechanisms of the door, hinges and blockers.
After installing an inexpensive safe-door, it is better to change the lock that comes with the door to a more reliable and expensive model. For safe doors, there are usually two locks, but the number does not matter if the door locks can be opened with a finger. For an expensive branded safe-door, you can not do this, but the keys to the door locks should be taken from the manager immediately after completing the purchase.
Often, the installation of safe doors, provokes the activity of local criminals. Therefore, often with a door a hidden camera or video fixing system is installed. In this case, you can easily identify gawkers - neighbors, looking at the new thing, from the professional view of apartment thieves. If the record is preserved, you can contact the police with the appropriate application.
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